The low down:
For the white water paddler a visit to North America is a must. It’s far from easy, but with the right crew, gear, vehicle and lots of cash (in the right season), you can access the best boating the planet has to offer!

East or West?
Many paddlers divide North American boating into East and West. The Western region includes the high mountain ranges of the Rockies, the Sierra Nevada’s of California and the Coastal ranges of the Pacific Northwest.
Tapping into this resource as a low budget Irish traveller is not easy. Here are some hard earned lessons from 2 trips to the Wild West. The first in 2002 lasted 6 weeks of June/July and took in North Colorado, Idaho and Montana. This year’s trip lasted 7 weeks from April to June and followed the competition circuit in Oregon and Washington before heading to Southern Colorado to chase some steep creeking during the spring run-off.


Where and When?
In theory you could start in California as early as April, hit the Rockies in May and follow the water all the way to Alaska. The rivers in British Columbia run till late July and the rain fed drainages of Oregon and Washington are boatable year round. Levels depend on winter snow-pack and summer temperatures, but May/June is a fairly solid bet for most areas.

Getting there
This is the easy part - fly to any major airport in your chosen area!

Getting your boat there
Now it gets tricky. Access to the States has tightened and it is becoming harder to swing those oversize items on for free. However, that doesn’t mean it’s not possible. Arrive early, smile sweetly and lie blatantly!

What boat?
For the advanced boater this is definitely 2-boat country. Creeker and playboat. Take your favourite and source the other on arrival. For intermediate paddlers an all-rounder like a Dagger Outlaw will probably work out fine.

Sourcing a boat in the States:
Rental options are limited and pricey. Many shops allow demos on their playboats but not on creekboats. However, the 2nd hand market is much weaker than at home and it should be possible to find a bargain. Try www.mountainbuzz.com , www.boatertalk.com and local classifieds.
In 2002 I flew with a playboat, got lucky in Idaho and scored a creekboat for 5 weeks in exchange for a case of beer! This year, I travelled without a kayak, but found an almost new Dagger Nomad (creekboat) for a good price. I also managed a long-term loan of a playboat – again, beer the only payment.

Getting Around:
For those of us used to throwing kayaks on buses in Africa, Nepal or South America it’s time for a reality check: Public transport in the U.S. is completely inadequate for boaters!
For once-off journeys between major towns Greyhound bus will get you and your boat to your destination… eventually. Domestic airlines are not very kayak friendly. Try Orbitz.com, although you won’t even get close to Ryanair-style bargains.
To go boating you NEED a car. For short stay paddlers, renting is a good option. Shop around for internet deals (rent-a-wreck is popular with boaters).
For the long-term visitor, purchasing an old banger may be attractive. Subaru Outbacks are a popular choice of car. Some areas require proper off-road vehicles however – best bet here is a pick-up truck. Throw in some guns, grow a big moustache, and you’ll look just like a local! A van or covered pick-up has the added advantage of doubling as a discreet camper.
Whatever you buy, remember it’s going to have to do some savage mileage and it must be registered and insured (which takes time, money and a US mailing address). Realistically you want to have $3000 handy for the vehicle and $100 per month for insurance. Also, be sure to acquaint yourself with local highway laws as the US police can be pretty aggressive!

River Information
Most areas have a whitewater guidebook. Many river gauges can be viewed at www.phateye.com. Local knowledge remains the best gauge however – kayak shops can be very helpful as can internet resources like mountainbuzz or boatertalk.

Style of paddling
Rivers are fairly wide with reasonable gradient. Hard rapids are generally boulder gardens or isolated drops.
Creeks on the other hand are a different ball game - narrow, steep, often require some hiking and can be choked with wood. Class 5 creeking means running steep slides and waterfalls.
Many rivers offer multi day trips, often in National Parks. Most require special permits, which can be hard to attain (the Grand Canyon waiting list currently stands at around 12 years). I was lucky enough to get invited on the Middle Fork of the Salmon in 2002 – an 8 day North American classic. So make some friends with gear rafts and permits and open up a whole new side to your kayaking career!
Playboating: White water parks are on the increase in many mountain towns, with easy access and improved features. Many class 3-4 runs are also play boatable with fun big volume features.

Basically, the wild west has it all, go hard and steep or just chill out on a wilderness vacation – whatever floats your boat!

The Competition Circuit
For competitive souls there is a vibrant freestyle circuit in the West. Events often combine extreme racing, boatercross, rodeo and surf and are an excellent opportunity to paddle with and against some of the world’s best paddlers. These pro-boaters spend all summer travelling between events - creeking, competing and filming. If you can paddle hard class 5 then these are great crews to hook up with. Keep showing up at the competitions and you’ll soon figure out the scene. See www.americanwhitewater.org for a full calendar.

Living Expenses
Relative to third-world alternatives America is definitely expensive. The secret is to first overcome the main financial obstacles - sourcing 2 kayaks and getting transport. After that here’s some additional tips:
• You can usually camp for free in National Forest areas.
• If a sign says “PROPERTY PROTECTED BY VIOLENT MEANS”…don’t camp there! Remember, Americans love guns.
• Gasoline is about $2.10 per gallon. A loaded Subaru will get about 20 miles to the gallon.
• Large supermarkets are pretty cheap. Invest in a stove and a cool box.
• Dining out is often good value too. A main course should leave you with change from $10, but you should tip 15-20%. Get used to Mexican food and ordering in Spanish.
• Beer is about $2-3 in a bar plus tip.
• Competition fees range from $20 to $50 per event depending on whether you enter expert or pro.

Overall, once the flight, car and boats are sorted, a budget of $25 - $30 per day should work for a fairly high mileage road trip, providing you camp wild (i.e. for free) every night. With the dollar now weaker than the euro, America is much better value than before.

Some general advice on America
Okay, let’s be honest, America’s negative points are well documented – an idiot president, obesity, firearms, fast food, religious fanaticism, militant policing, culture of fear, American football (yawn), shopping channels and a great propensity to talk very, very loudly.

Now hear this:
To have a successful boating adventure in the States you’ll need to cast all these prejudices aside. I won’t deny these things exist (and neither will my American friends). However, if you look under the surface you’ll find friendly, outgoing, liberal people. You’ll discover a mountain culture dedicated to outdoor leisure and having a good time.
I’m writing this in late May from Durango CO, a town where no one locks their front door and car keys are left in the ignition. The playspot is 5 mins away and the creeks are raging. If I get bored with boating there’s biking, hiking, back-country skiing, fishing, climbing, hot springs, pubs, festivals, drive in movies and cowboy dancing… what more do you want?!

So, now that you have the info, get yourself a flight and discover your own American white water dream… it’s certainly not easy but it’s well worth the effort.

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