Slovenia
Article by Sean Kinsella
Photos by Sean Kinsella and Ernesto Vattolo

Slovenia lies between Italy, Hungary, Austria, Croatia and the Adriatic Sea. During World War 1 it was the site of the Izonzo/Soca front, where the Italians and Austro-Hungarians kicked the shit out of each other until the Soca River turned red with blood. Because of Slovenia’s location on the globe, it is very culturally mixed between eastern and western Europe. It got its independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1991.
In the north western part of Slovenia in the region of Primorska, where two of the world’s tectonic plates meet, is the stunning Juliann Alps. Carving its way through the Alps and all the way to the Adriatic Sea lays the emerald river or else known as the Soca.

The river:
Whatever grade of paddler you are there is something on the Soca for you. From cruzy float trips to full on technical runs, it’s all there. There are many different sections you can do each day. The best time of year to go is from April, when the snow starts to melt and lots of rain about, to October before the cold weather really starts to kick in. but good boating all year round, if you willing to bear the bad weather. But during high European summer there are lots of people using the river.

SOCA RIVER
LOVEC – VODENCA
The upper section, Just before you get to the village of soca you can put on before a gorge. Its best to do this run in high water 40 and above cm3. At those levels it’s a fast cruzy run. Lots of big wave trains and two bigger grade3-4 rapids. One main gorge section, which is worth having a look at before going down, definitely in higher water.

VODENCA - CEZSOCA
Really fun mellow sections in high water, big and bouncy, nothing much to worry about. But at low water its probably one of the most beautiful runs on the soca.

CEZSOCA – BOKA
Probably the easiest run around the area. But still well worth the paddle. It’s situated in a big open valley just after the confluence of the Kornitca River and the Soca. It’s a really nice relaxing paddle with some spectacular views. 2007 saw the filming of the second movie in the “Chronicles of Narnia” on this section utilizing the magnifigance of the Soca valley as a backdrop. I definitely recommend this section to clear a hang over.

BOKA – SRPENICA
Similar to the section before but ups a river grade a little bit. Really mellow stuff.

SREPENICA – KREDA
Ups a grade again but still pretty mellow stuff, a good warm up before the next section.

KREDA- TRONOVO (classic section)
Probably the most paddled section on the river. Its continues grade3-4. Good in all levels, especially high water. No really pushy stuff but a very enjoyable run. Lots of eddy’s to catch, some good holes to play in high water and lots of places to perfect your rock spins and splats.

TRONOVO – BROKEN BRIDGE (slalom section)
About a kilometer long of grade 4 technical rapids in low water, which are really good. And in medium water it has continuous clean lines. Then in high water it’s a sweet and fast run, some big holes and a few pushy lines. With a track along the bank, it’s a perfect place to hang out for the day and work on your skills. Also the 1996 slalom world champs where held here.

BROKEN BRIDGE TO OTANA (cataract, siphon canyon)
If you don’t enjoy the thought of multiple siphons on every rapid, don’t go. But at a good flow of 15- 50 cm3, it’s a really good continues run that will keep you on your toes. Lower than that its very technical stuff, don’t make a mistake style. Then in higher water the lines get a lot pushier.
Compared to a lot of other sections on the Soca there is no roadside access at all. Very steep canyons with a difficult walk out if things go wrong (which happens). If you are a confident paddler I really recommend this section, it’s a must if you visit the area.

OTANA-KOBARID
It’s my favorite run on the river. The walk down is very steep and a bit tricky but its well worth it for the paddle. Similar to the classic section, but with a bit more bite. Two or three bigger rapids on it. There is always a bit more water on the section because its lower down the valley, where more tributaries feed in to it. And the best thing about it is the take out; at place called camp Koren there is a sauna and a bar. Sauna and a beer after a good paddle, perfect.

KORNITICA RIVER
When it’s raining hard in the valley the Kornitica is one run you have to get to. High water is recommended for the run. You put in just below a World War 1 fortress called the Kluze. It’s a continues big and fun run with lots of wave trains, and interesting holes. Not much roadside access, you are in some deep gorges at times, which is really beautiful. Big moss covered walls with huge trees hanging over the river. You can finish at the confluence of the Soca or continue on until you get tired.

That’s the beauty of the whole valley, the access to multiple runs all along the same road for about 30km.

HOW TO GET THERE
It’s pretty easy to get to the Soca valley. We drove from Rosslare in Ireland, across France to the Alps for some paddling. Then through Italy to Slovenia. We spent two weeks going across, hanging out and being tourist. Following a huge thunderstorm half way across France. Then getting lost walking around Venice for 3 hours, should have took are boats.
Because we where going to be there for a few months and working it was no problem to take are time.
If your going for a short period you can still drive, it would take about 3-4 days depending how many drivers you have and how good of a wagon you got.
It’s also easy to fly there, flight to Lubiana where you can rent a car for about 140euro for about 10 days. Between a car full of people is not to bad.
There is not much of a bus system here either. Hitch hiking is really easy in the valley, lots of paddlers and rafting companies around. Easy for shuttle if you only have one vehicle.

WHERE TO STAY
It’s all there in the valley for accommodation. If you want to go cheap, find a field out of the town a bit, out of the way and pitch a tent, wash in the river as well. A step up from that you can go to a campsite ranging from 8-14 euro. More you pay the better facilities.
If you don’t mind spending more money you can rent an apartment for 12-18euro a night per person. One step up from that is a room in a hotel for about 50uro a night, don’t think many paddlers would pay that much.

FOOD AND DRINK
Well if you’re cooking for yourself or a group of people, it’s pretty cheap. The supermarkets are in all the bigger towns, where you can get nearly everything you want for food.
There is a good few restaurants in the valley too. Mainly in all the villages and towns you pass on the main road. The best ones are in Bovec and Srpenica, also really cheap.
Because Slovenia is on the border with Italy you get a lot of pizza places with really good food.
If you go into a restaurant in Bovec, called Letni Vert you can find on the menu, bear claw.
There are two main beers in Slovenia, Zlatorog or Union. If you are having a heavy night and need to be up in the morning with a clear head I recommend Zlatorog, magical stuff and tasty.

Legend has it that all the destruction the valley has seen over the many years has contributed to the spectacular beauty and pureness of the area. The chaos and spilt blood from the wars has been replaced now by a serenity of calm and willingness to stay forever. Blood and bone fertilizer, makes even the most destroyed things grow back over time.