New Zealand
Planning a white water trip to "the land of the long white cloud"...

New Zealand is a superb adventure paddling destination. Both North and South islands provide excellent kayaking although it is the West Coast of the South Island that really earns New Zealand its world class reputation. With a population of just 4 million people (mostly living on the North Island), there are huge tracts of wild mountain country, accessible only by foot or helicopter. Perhaps the country’s greatest attribute is its variety of landscape with high peaks, dense forest, long beaches, and everything in between. From a traveller’s point of view it could hardly be better set up – English speaking, low crime, good infrastructure, abundance of wild camping and one of the easiest places in the world to buy a vehicle.

We spent 2 months there, Nov-Jan 2006/7. The blog from our trip can be found here. More in depth information on planning a trip to New Zealand is outlined below.

People and Culture
NZ is the home place of both indigenous Maori and European settler alongside a large transient backpacker population and recent economic migrants from Asia. The Maori cultural traditions are best preserved on the North Island while examples of hardy Scottish sheep farmers can be found across the frontier style South. The official religion is Rugby.

Getting there:
We flew BA Dublin to Auckland for €1300. If you are short of time consider flying into Christchurch instead. Cars are cheaper to buy and easier to sell in Auckland. Usual conditions apply when trying to get boats on the flight – you take your chances. Air New Zealand and Quantas do internal flights.

Visas:
Tourist visa available on arrival for Irish passport holders. A 1 year work visa is easily available online for under 30 year olds and can be got before or after entry to New Zealand. Skilled migrants also have a straightforward process for obtaining work permits.

Guidebooks:
Numerous travel guides for general info. New Zealand White Water by Graham Charles is indispensable for kayakers – ISBN: 1-877333-01-8
www.rivers.org.nz and www.metvuw.com for flows, forums and the essential 3 day forecasts.

Getting Around
Own vehicle is essential. Numerous hire companies for cars and campervans (large and small). For longer trips vehicle purchase is a good idea. Vehicles can be found in the Trade Me magazine, hostel notice boards and at the car markets. In Auckland there are 3 such markets – Backpacker’s. Waterfront and the Racecourse.

Types of vehicle:
Mostly Japanese. Corrollas etc are the cheapest option. HiAce campervans or minibus style vehicles are generally overpriced for the vehicle but popular because of the sleeping options. We bought a Nissan Serena people carrier for about €1500.

Vehicle Documentation:
Cars must have a current Warrant of Fitness (WOF) displayed (like an NCT / MOT). You must also complete a change of ownership and it is worth doing a legal check before buying which ensures there are no outstanding fines or the car is not stolen. Mechanical checks are available at the car markets for a small fee. Diesel cars must display a tax disk which much be renewed after a certain mileage.

Currency and cost of living:
The NZ$ is worth about 0.5€ which makes it relatively cheap compared with other developed countries. Imported goods can be expensive though due to its isolation. Definitely cheaper living than Ireland. Comparable to the U.S.

Type of paddling
Something for everyone BUT mostly a destination for solid creek boaters in tight crews. A true adventure boating destination – hard water, remote locations, strenuous portages, long days, hike ins, gorges, helicopter access.

Boat Choice
A creek boat. Very few imported boats are available in NZ. The Bliss Stick factory on the North Island will ship anywhere in the country for €75 and generally do good prices on new boats.

Our rough itinerary
Flew into Auckland, bought a car, paddled Kaituna and Rangitiki on way to Wellington. Crossed by ferry to Picton, paddled some easy runs around Murchison,. Based in Hokitika for majority of west coast time. Travelled to Queenstown and spent some holiday time in Fiordland.

The West Coast
The mountains rise straight from the Tasman sea here, brought into life by endless fronts that come sweeping in from the sea. Lower road access runs are good during heavy rain. Higher runs that generally need a hike in tend to work after rain, while the helicopter access stuff higher up needs a period of dry weather.

Flow profiles spike to crazy levels very quickly so it is imperative not to get on a rising river. Paddling is mostly boulder garden with a few larger waterfalls. Sieves, siphons and caves are extremely common. Very dense forest makes hiking out without a trail virtually impossible. Thankfully, the Department of Conservation maintain excellent hiking trails in many areas. Some of these trails have basic huts along the way.

Helicopters
I had assumed the helicopter thing was just a gimmick but they really are the only shuttle option for many rivers. Costs from $70 - $140 per person and depending on the river. Boats are tied on the skids or in a net underneath. Scouting from the helicopter gives you some idea of what to expect but not much.

Where to stay
Starting with the cheapest ppn: wild camping ($0), DOC campsites with drop toilets ($7). Holiday parks with showers and kitchens ($14), Hostels ($25), Nicer than hostels (as much as you want to pay).

Time of Year
October to April with the main season for creeking Dec/Jan. Everything depends heavily on rain – whether there is too much or too little. Watching internet flow charts and weather forecast becomes part of the daily routine. Two essential websites are rivers.org and metvuw.com

New Zealand Kayak School Murchison
A good place to touch base when you first arrive in Murchison, owned by kayaking legend Mick Hopkinson who is ready to offer lots of info on demand. more...

What gear?
Drysuit / pants for long overcast days. LS cag at the very least. Full rescue kit, splits and first aid are mandatory. Hike out horror stories aren’t hard to find.

Travelling alone / safety kayaking work
A difficult place to hook up due to the committing nature of the runs. The campsite at Mahinapua in Hoki is a good place to start. Safety kayaking will limit you to only a few rivers. You should arrange this before travelling as it is hard to come by.

Other things to do
Endless outdoor pursuits and adventure tourism gimmicks in amazing scenery, only limited by your wallet and/or sense of adventure.