Japan

by Sean Kinsella

My thoughts going to Japan were of experiencing one of the oldest cultures in the world and experiencing another country. But when you arrive there it is like being on another planet, let alone another country. The people are the most courteous and gentle people I have ever met. The country is beautiful and very surreal and the technology and quirkiness in Tokyo city is overwhelming.

Arrival
When you arrive in one of the many airports in Tokyo you will have to get a connecting train that travels into Tokyo’s centre. The nearest place to go boating near Tokyo is a place called Minakami. This is the best place to have a base camp. Mainly because of the many raft companies that base themselves there. It is also in very close to all the good rivers in the area. Rafting companies can provide all the river information, shuttles, food and accommodation. I would recommend a company called Canyons, which is one of the best companies in the area and there are English speaking guides and owners there. www.canyons.co.jp
From the airport get the local train to Ueno train station. Then from Ueno take the bullet train to a place called Jomokogen station in Minakami, which takes about two and a half hours. When you get to Minakami you would have organized a pick up from the raft companies or a rental car. You could just get a rental car from the airport and drive all the way if you’re with a large group. I was traveling alone with my boat and gear and was no trouble on the trains but it could be with more than one person. I was going to work as a safety kayaker for one of the rafting companies so had everything organized before I arrived. I find that going to work for rafting companies is the best way to see other countries rivers very cheaply and is easy to hook up with other boaters.

Food

Food in Japan is more than just a simple meal, there whole culture revolves on the type of amazing food they cook. In every small town there is always a cheap and amazing food to get. But my favorite is in every seven eleven and petrol station there is really cheap and tasty sushi all the time.

Tone River
It is one of the longest rivers in Japan and with its water it provides millions of rice
paddies with irrigation. But it also lures white water enthusiasts
to the town of Minakami in the Gunma prefecture where the Tone is a kayaking and
rafting playground. Its an 8km stretch of wave trains and some really nice rapids. The
Upper section Momogy starts off down a big weir which has to be run dead centre or you
will get worked in one of the big holes on river left and right. I found that out the hard
way when I got a kicking and got a chunk taken out of my helmet, lesson learnt.

Momogy is the most dangerous part of the river with the whole section being in a large and steep gorge that is about 3km long. The rapids are not too difficult, maybe 3-4 but if something goes wrong you will have trouble getting out of there. Ropes would have to be used. The main thing to look out for is a large pour over about half way down. When you get out of Momogy you are in to the main rafting section. This is pretty cruisy and follows a road all the way, and goes right into Minakami town centre. All the rapids are read and run, and have little consequences, but it can be shallow in lots of places. There is about 4km of pools and rapids until the main section which is called Ugasen or “the dragons back” in English which can be totally different in all levels. At the bottom of it at a flow of around 3 meters there is a great play wave which is really popular with Japanese play boaters.

After that there are two easy rapids and the take out which is just after a Green

Bridge. The best time of year for the Tone is June and July so you can hit the snow melt and the Rainy season in spring. Or in October when the autumn brings in typhoon season. At high water in the rainy season the river is big, boily and scary, but an awesome run. Lots of big waves and big holes. The river is controlled by a dam which you can get the water levels from the internet. But in the mid summer around august time they don’t let out so much water, which can be boney.

Fugiwara River
About 30 minutes from Minakami is a really nice run called Fugiwara. It only takes about 40 minutes to do but is very beautiful and not too difficult, maybe a solid 3. The most interesting thing about the run is that it starts off down a large dam. A slide about 25 meters long and has a big kicker at the end of it, really fun. Then you have a pretty simple run with pretty easy lines. But there are high consequences, a lot of sieves and some undercuts, which are really hazardous for swimmers. There is no road that follows the river and only one put in and take out. At high water it’s a solid four with big waves and nasty holes. It’s a really fun run which runs all year round apart from the heavy snow season.

Quatsa River
Roughly 40 minutes from Minakami is a very committing run called the Quatsa. The river itself is very long but the main section is difficult to get to. All the road info can be got from one of the main raft companies. It’s graded as a 2-6 and its main section to run is 13km long. It starts of pretty crusy with lots of easy read and run rapids. After about 3km you get into the first main gorge. The rapid is a drop about 3 meters which then runs into another smaller drop that has a nasty hole, in the right levels it can be very unforgiving. Scouting it can be done but takes a bit of time climbing around the gorge. After that gorge you run lots of easy 2-3 that are all read and run. Then the second gorge, a very tight 4meter drop. At different water levels the lines are totally different. You can scout it from river left but it’s a difficult climb. The run in is simple but if you’re a little off line you will get slammed on the walls left or right. After that main gorge there are lots of small rapids 3-4. Then get to the main grade 6 portage. This is a 500meter section of sieves, undercuts and strainers. The first two drops look pretty doable. But if you mess up the consequences are very severe, getting pulled into a river wide sieve or coming off a very large drop with no place for rescue. The portage itself is a challenge, ropes have to be used in places. You’re clambering over big boulders and sliding down a large muck slide. The last drop can be run but the problem is that you can’t scout the line, because of a large boulder in the way. With the run in looking ok and me being the youngest there I decided that I would at least try. It turned out to be pretty crusy, keeping hard right and getting a good boof to clear the hole at the bottom made it all good.

After that the rest is all simple, all easy 2-3, but the most interesting part of the whole run is the snow bridges that stretch right across the river that you paddle under. The take out is when you see the first sign of civilization. The river is committing with only one put in and take out, good gear should be brought and food. It took us 6 hours to run, friends of mine had trouble on it and it took them11 hours to get out so be prepared. But its one of the best runs in Japan I have done and totally recommend it.

Park and Huck
In and around Minakami there are lots of nice canyons with good access. The majority of them are large sliders and some nice waterfalls. Also in a place called Yamonashi there is a canyon called 40 waterfalls. It’s a 4km course of waterfalls and big slides. The largest drop is 18meters. It’s a committing mission but amazing. Only bad thing is that you have to walk for two hours with all your gear.

Japan is a wonderful place and has so much potential for lots of great kayaking. So much of the rivers has been untouched by kayakers and is ready for me to explore next season.
For a video of all these rivers go to www.irishcanoeoutfitters.com and click on the Japaneasy video.