Chile
Fancy a winter paddling destination in
a country with Latin American character but North American
comforts, jaw dropping scenery and hundreds of crystal clear
creeks? Chile could be just the ticket...
The basics
Chile is a long skinny country in South America. The North
of the country is one of the driest places on the planet.
The South is like the West of Ireland. They speak Spanish.
They like to eat red meat and drink red wine. They don't
like Argentina. They look much more European than their
South American neighbours further North and they have a
relatively high standard of living. Compared to the rest
of S. Am, Chile is expensive, but the boating is sheer class.
Getting set up
Get yourself to Santiago and procure a motor vehicle. Long
term visitors should consider buying. The best advice for
this is to stay with Scott at the SCS Habitat hostal. He
is a mine of information. If like us, you're around for
under 2 months, its probably easier to rent. We paid $30
for something that was pretty unsuited to the terrain we
wanted to drive, but we made it work with a heavy foot and
a lack of concern for bodywork.
Getting Boating
Buy a good road map and boot down the Pan-American highway
for 8 hours to Pucon, an excellent creeking centre to start
in. Stay at the Monkey Puzzle hostal
with Brad - he'll hook you up. Info on rivers available
below or from local kayaking outfitters, particularly KayakChile.net
who can run the whole show for you and save you mucho hassle.
A standard itinerary soaks up the runs around Pucon, then
road trips North and South a bit, before pushing South all
the way to the famous Futaleufu.
Time of Year
November to February. Pucon best early season, Futa best
later on.
Style of boating
Steep creeking, except for the Futa, where you might like
a fast playboat.
Cost
Budget $30 a day, after the car is sorted.
Other stuff to do?
Way too much for me to cover - get a lonely planet or google
Chile adventure or similar... the all time adventure playground.
River Notes from Rob Murphy:
Usual cautions about using guidebooks apply
- if you don't know what they are then you probably shouldn't
be paddling this stuff. Images are in no particular order.
Kayaking
around Pucon
“Duck and Huck” Rio Coilaco
Grade: 3+ Read and Run
Portages: none
Time: 15 mins
Dangers: Trees, shallow
Description: “duck and huck” is a 30 foot park
and huck waterfall. The rest of the run can be done in the
early season its continues grade 3 but with consequences
there is a lot of trees hanging in the river.
Put in: Take 119 from Pucon you come down a windy bit of
road into? Take a right turn for “Trufulco”
then you’re first left, then there is a house directly
in front of you and the road turns 90 degrees to the right
at the side of this house there is a path down to the viewing
platform.
Take Out: Go back onto the 119 turn right and the first
bridge you come to is Puente Coilaco, take out on left bank
on the downstream side of bridge.
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Rio
Alto Liucura
Grade: 3- -4 Read and Run
Portages: None
Time: 1hr30
Dangers: none
Description:
A long flat start followed by a couple of grade 3 rapids
then one long continues 4- then a few more 3’s. Take
out on left under the bridge.
Put
In: Take the 119 out of Pucon till you come to a sign for
“3 Saltos” follow these signs, off the main
road onto a dirt track for 100m till you hit the bridge.
Take
Out: Go back to the Y junction turn right onto the 119 the
first bridge you come to is the take out.
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Rio Maichin
Grade: 4/5
Portages: 1 not mandatory
Time:
Dangers: undercuts
The
first few rapids were read and run after about 4or 5 there
is a portage that in low water you must portage on the left
as there is no eddy on the right, but in high water it can
be scouted and portage either side. The portage is a meaty
hole with a lot of undercuts. You go under a foot bridge
and the rapids pick up, we portaged/snuck on the right another
rapid that you can’t scout the last move from above.
There are a couple more rapids that you might want to look
at. Paddle a for a good bit after the concert bridge till
the gorge opens out, you will see picnic tables in the trees
on the right.
Put
In: take 119 to the end of Curarrehue take left for “Reigolil”
follow these signs and turn left at every junction. When
you cross a concrete bridge “Pte Basas” keep
right and continue till the river joins the road you come
to a house on the left park at the entrance there will be
a steep incline road sign with an AT paddles sticker.
Take
Out: Instead of keeping right after Pte Basas if you had
gone straight
Continue to the end of this road there is a sort of round
about with a stream flowing through it, if you go through
the gate on your left it leads you down to the river.
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Rio Nevado’s
Grade: 5 committing
Portages:
Time:
Dangers: Siphons, pinning potential, trees
This was my favorite run, I would advise
having some one who knows the run with you other wise you
will be guessing some lines. Second rapid go under tree
on right, next rapid go over tree heading right. Eases off
a bit then there is a drop that leads into a nice slide.
Then a must run 20-25 footer that drops off side ways. Then
a must run 25 footer that you can’t scout the landing….it
go’s! The next one go left and boof into the eddy
then you have to ferry glide across the back of the hole
the first eddy on the right drops off into a siphon so you
are best running it all straight, the river turns left and
you want to be left going left then another drop a pool.
Then the next drop is usually portaged at high levels on
the right it’s very under cut. Not long after this
rapid is the take out there is a tree across the right hand
side of the river and you see the river drop off. Take out
on left.
Put In: Take S905 from Pucon take turn for
“3 Saltos” follow signs for “Lefincul”
when you cross “Pte Lefincul” take the road
straight ahead go to the second wooden bridge this is put
in.
Take
Out: Drive back down till you meet a green patch on the
right.
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Alto Panqui
Grade: continuous 3
Portages: none
Time: 40 mins
Dangers: trees
This is a short fast run for when every thing else is too
high! The hardiest rapid is just down stream of the take
out bridge.
Put in: Before you come to the town of Curarrahue turn left
for “Termas de Panqui” follow these signs till
you come to a sign for “los Chilcos” take the
next left put in at the second bridge you come to (the bigger
one)
Take out: Go back to sign for “los Chilcos”
take this down to old bridge. There is a bridge lower but
we could not find it on the map.
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Panqui
Grade: 5
Portages: one
Time:
Dangers: Trees
The
portage comes once you come through a very tight gorge,
take out on left there is a gate into the field. The walk
down is on a narrow steep zig zag path. There are two rapids
where you put in, then there is a 30 footer which in high
water is unscoutable and must run in low levels there is
a ledge you can get out on river right but if you don’t
think you would run it I would not bother with the run.
You pass under a foot bridge and there are a few more rapids.
Put
In: See take out for upper, there is a bridge just before
you go into the narrow gorge but we could not find it.
Take
out: After coming off 119 take left turn at the first Y
you come to a sign for “relicura” continue straight
on this road till it comes to an end at the river, the Trancura
will be on your left at the start.
To take out at the foot bridge, instead of taking turn for
“relicura” take turn for “relicura alto”
take second right it looks like you are just coming to a
farm house but continue on to the foot bridge.
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Alto Puesco
Grade: 5
Portages:
Time: 30 mins
Dangers: TREES
Put
In: The Upper section is the same as the lower except for
one rapid “Tres Trancos” which go’s but
has a lot of timber in it. Have a look at “Tres Trancos”
before doing the run if you don’t like it just do
laps on the bottom section.
Put
in: Take the 119 through Curarrhue for 17 kms till you come
to a restaurant and camp site continue on to the next bridge.
Take
Out: Not long after the restaurant there is a crash barrier
on the left at the end there is a gate this brings you down
to “tres tranco” and the take out.
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Peusco
Grade: 4
Portages: none
Time: 15 mins
Dangers trees
This
is an early season technical run with small eadys and some
big holes when v high. Once you know the lines you will
be running laps in 15 mins.
Put
in: see Take out of Upper.
Take
out: Take 119 for the border through Curarrhue for 17 kms
till you come to a restaurant/camp site this is the take
out.
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Alto Alto Palguin
Grade: 3
Portages: none
Time:
Dangers
Nice
class 3 run.
Put
In: Take 119 from Pucon, turn right at sign for “Palguin”
and “Termas de Palguin” continue past “Salto
Palguin” when you come to a bridge take your first
left for Salto/Termas Chinas follow the road till you meet
the river.
Take
Out: Coming up the hill past “Salto Palguin”
take your first left and put in at the bridge.
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Alto
Palguin
Grade: 4 or 5 when high
Portages: 1/2
Time: 1hr 30 mins
Dangers:
This
is a must run!! It gets easer as the water drops. First
rapid double drop scout on the left. Second rapid is unscoutable
you can see the river turn to the left this is the drop
its got a meaty hole so go right then right some more. 3rd
drop take out on left clean 20’ with two channels.
Straight after is the “fishing hole” take out
on left for scouting, river wide hole. Next rapid take out
on right three channels we seal launched on the right but
it goes at lower levels there is a pitton rock at the bottom.
The portage is next so slowly move down the river left there
are two rocks which you must go between and go left, there
should be a big dead tree to get out at. The portage is
to lower your boats down and to jump the 50 into the river.
The rest is all read and run.
Put
In: Turn off the 119 onto the Palguin road continue for
6 km there is a lay bye on the right just before the “Salto
Palguin”. Go under the fence follow the path down,
you cross over a natural bridge and seal launch off the
right bank and your straight into the goods!
Take
Out: From the start of the Palguin road it is 4.2 km to
the left turn down to the bridge. It is worth looking at
the take out as if you miss the eddy you are into a sieved
out gorge.
Name:
Middle Palguin “Rock Star Section”
Grade: 5+
Portages: Yes Please
Time:
Dangers: Lots
There
are three drops the first one goes down the center with
a rocky landing on both sides. Second on is a double drop
first drop has a sticky hole then a 30’. The last
one is a 60 footer.
Put In/ Take Out: The half built house at
the upper put in there is a path down to view them.
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Lower
Palguin
Grade: 4
Portages: 1
Time: 1hr 30min
Dangers: under cuts
The
first few rapids are read and run grade 4. Then you have
the drop upstream of the bridge which you scout on your
way up (see Put In) keep left. The next big rapid is a triple
drop scout on the right the last drop is very undercut and
usually only run when low. You get out for the portage here
on river right. Put back in, in a pool with a cave you can
scout the last rapid that has two channels the right one
is an auto boof.
Put
in: 3.8 km up the palguin road from the 119 there is a half
built house on the left park hear. Walk down hill just before
a concrete lamp post there is a trench dug out of the ditch
walk down hear, you will have to lower your boats down.
2.8 km up the road there is a lay bye on the left and a
bridge if you look up stream there is a rapid with a must
make move.
Take
out: 1 km up the palguin road there is a left turn follow
this down to the bridge.
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Rio
Trancura (alto)
Grade: big Vol. 3+
Portages: 1
Time:
Dangers:
Description:
First rapid has a play wave, second rapid is hard to scout
it has a tongue down the middle. The river channels you
keep to the right. Rapid before portage scout on the right
hand side (nice photo point with Volcano in the back ground).
Portage there is a small slot on the left hand side take
out at the top of this there is a path on the left bank.
The second part of the portage is run frequently “the
last laugh”. The rest is big wave trains read and
run.
Put
In: #1 “Raft Put In” Take 119 till you see a
fishing sign there will be a lay by and a launch into the
river.
Put
In: #2 Take S905 over “Pte Trancura” take first
right onto a dirt track follow this road till you go over
a wooden bridge there is a path onto the far side of the
bridge going down to a beach. This put in only cuts out
the flat water warm up. On your way up the road there is
a viewing point for the portage and the rapid above it so
you know what to expect.
Take
out: Pte Trancura
Other Rivers
Siete
Tazas “7 Tea Cups” Rio Claro
Grade: 3
Portages: none
Time:
Dangers
There are 22 more drops up stream. I hear you can get to
them by walking up river right for 3 km from Parque Ingles.
There are only 2 really good drops in the 7, the last two.
Put
In: From the town of Molina go to the siete tazas national
park (entry 1500 pesos) Follow the timber decking till you
come to number 4 turn left into the trees there isn’t
much of a path you should come to a mound of stones turn
right and there should be a steep decent to the river there
is a drop here that is a pit dodge in higher levels. Alternatively
we put in on the river left side (private property) there
is a viewing point of the top ones we lowered down hear.
If you drive past the entrance to the park and take your
first right and follow signs for 7 tea cups.
Take
Out: the tourist viewing point in the park.
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Rio Petrohue
Grade: Big Vol 3
Portages: none
Time:
Danger
Big
Volume read and run.
Put
in: Drive out of Puerto Varas through Ensenada till you
come to a Y keep left you will see the river on your right
then you come to a black lava dust road that will have a
turning circle for the rafts at the end (about 100m in),
you put in, on a tributary.
Take
Out: Go back to the Y turn left drive along till you come
to a gate on the left with a log cabin on either side. You
have to pay to get in here.
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Alto Petrohue
Grade: big Vol 3/4, with two 5’s
Portages:
Time:
Dangers
Big volume read and run except for two rapids.
On your way to the put in you can and should scout the two
harder rapids. The first one is at the take out scout it
on your way up as you will need two scout it from the opposite
side if you are going to run it. The second one the river
will meet the road on a bend and you can scout it but it
is hard to see the main channel. We ran it at what we think
was a low level but it still felt big so the grades might
not be accurate for higher levels.
Put In: Lago Todos Los Santos.
Take Out: Take first right after “Saltos de Petrohue”
onto a little dirt track a car might not get onto it; it’s
only through the bushes though.
Futaleufu Tributaries
Rio
Espolin
Grade: 2/3 big Vol
Portages:
Time:
Dangers
Big
Volume with the rapids getting progressively harder so perfect
for beginners.
Put
In: Come out of Futa passing over the Espolon the road meets
the river (a big S bend in the river). “Valle Bonito”
is signed to the right, follow to the suspension bridge.
Take
out #1: Puente Espolon easiest to find you cross over it
on the way to the put in.
Take Out #2: From Put in go back towards Futa and take a
right turn for “La Confluencia” follow these
signs when the road ends at a gate take a right and follow
this road through a farm yard its private property so ask
permission the road is beside the river take the first left
to the take out.
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Rio
Azul
Grade: 3/4
Portages:
Time: 1-3 hrs
Dangers: sharp volcanic rock
Good
run if the Futa is too high or as a warm up has some play
spots depending on levels.
Put
In: You cross over Puente azul (no sign) take your first
right drive up this dirt road and you will pass through
three gates and you will come to a suspension bridge. There
is a dirt track to walk down to the put in, just before
the parking spot at the bridge.
Take
out: Coming out of town take your first left after Puente
azul, there is a nice log bus stop at the junction. Follow
this road and after you go through a gate there is a green
area on your left we parked here and walked up from the
river. If you continue down you can get out at the confluence
with the Futa or paddle the Futa...
